Our Leathers
Over the years, we’ve tried lots of different leathers. Throughout that process, several have stood out and stood up to the tests of time and use—coming out the other side with plenty of patina as proof. In this section, we will share an overview of the leathers we’ve come to love the most.
Divided into two primary categories—cowhide and shell cordovan—we source a variety of each type from leading tanneries throughout the US, Italy, and Japan. Read on to learn about the characteristics, qualities, and colors of the leathers offered in our custom ordering program.
Shell Cordovan
Our favorite leather to work with, shell cordovan is made from the fibrous flat muscle (or “shell”) found in the hindquarters of a horsehide. Considerably rare and exceptionally beautiful, shell cordovan is known for its bold colors, durability, temper, and signature shine. Due to the slow vegetable-tanning process required to create quality cordovan, as well as its relative scarcity compared to cowhide, this leather fetches a premium price—but one that’s well worth it, in our experienced opinion.
Items made with shell cordovan tend to be slightly thicker than cowhide options (which can be easily split to thinner weights) so expect a bit more heft along with a whole lot of wonderful patina potential. Here at Left/Foot, we primarily source shell from three tanneries: Horween in the US, Shell Toscana in Italy, and Shinki Hikaku in Japan. Each tannery offers a completely unique final product, and you can learn the ins and outs of all three below.
HORWEEN: The OG shell tannery, Horween was founded in 1905 in Chicago and began producing their famous cordovan soon after. The softest and most natural of the shell cordovans we offer, the Horween production process takes up to six months. This cordovan is available in a wide range of colors and is recognizable for the unique dye patterns on the backside of the shell which often gets incorporated into “reverse” cordovan designs. Equally iconic is the tannery’s famous stamp, which is sought after by many leather collectors. Horween holds tremendous patina potential and ages wonderfully. It may be slightly less refined than the other options in this list, but Horween remains a must-have for any serious leather aficionado.
SHELL TOSCANA: Located in the region from which it takes its name, Shell Toscana is an Italian tannery specializing in high-quality, colorful cordovan created through a combination of traditional and classic techniques. Slightly stiffer and more refined than Horween, Shell Toscana leathers feature a high-gloss finish that still packs plenty of patina potential—although it is slightly more susceptible to scratches. In general, Shell Toscana cordovan is a bit thicker than that from other tanneries, making it an excellent choice for bifold and folding wallet exteriors as well as card wallets. As an added bonus, Shell Toscana allows for arguably the shiniest burnished edges around.
SHINKI HIKAKU: Based in Himeji, Japan, Shinki Hikaku represents the third—and most refined—cordovan in our regular range. The tannery has been in operation for nearly 75 years and has earned a reputation for producing some of the finest leathers on the planet. Two things that truly stand out about Shinki shell are its color and finish. Unlike our other two shells, Shinki leather is dyed all the way through, making the reverse side and edges the same color as its polished exterior. As for the finish, Shinki shell has a very even surface, one that is finely shined to seemingly “sparkle” under bright light. As for temper, Shinki is the firmest we offer, but still works well for a variety of applications.
Cowhide
Cowhides come in many cuts, colors, and thicknesses from countless tanneries around the world. For our custom product offering, we primarily work with three specific leathers from the Badalassi Carlo and Conceria Walpier tanneries in Italy: Buttero, Minerva, and Pueblo. Naturally beautiful, these leathers are produced slowly and responsibly through specific vegetable-tanning processes, resulting in distinctive final products, each unique in terms of temper, texture, and hue.
Compared to shell cordovan, cowhide is more affordable and can be split to virtually any thickness, making it an excellent choice for slimmer items and applications such as watch straps and wallet interiors. For a refined look, we line all our cowhide products with ultra-thin, lightly textured Minerva Box leather. Learn more about our three favorite Italian leathers below.
BUTTERO: Our most popular—and most colorful—cowhide offering, Buttero is a full-grain, vegetable-tanned leather produced by the Conceria Walpier tannery in Tuscany. Available in a range of vibrant hues, Buttero has a smooth finish and medium-firm temper that works well at practically any weight—even when split thin for extra slim wallet interiors. Buttero requires very little maintenance and is resilient, scratch resistant, and develops a rich patina with time and use. One thing to note about Buttero, when bent, it tends to develop a light texture to the surface at the fold—especially prevelant on darker shades.
MINERVA: Another wonderful Tuscan leather, Minerva is produced by Badalassi Carlo and comes in two varieties: smooth and pebbled. We primarily work with the former for most projects while the lightly textured “box” option is our standard for lining cash slots and pockets. Like Buttero, Minerva is a full-grain, vegetable-tanned leather. By comparison, however, Minerva has a softer temper and finish and is even more prone to developing a deep patina quickly. Minerva is also offered in a variety of great shades, with each slightly less vibrant than those of Buttero. Choose Minerva if you’re looking for a lovely, soft cowhide that will age amazingly and last for years and years to come.
PUEBLO: Pueblo is another banger from the Badalassi Carlo tannery that we love to incorporate into our craft. Similar in both tone and temper to its sibling Minerva, Pueblo is soft yet resilient and comes in a bright lineup of both bold and natural colors. What makes Pueblo unique is its brushed, variegated surface texture. Badalassi Carlo use a special finishing process that gives this leather a subtle rustic look and feel. With time and use, Pueblo will darken while its surface develops a smoother, shinier quality. Pueblo is an excellent choice for incorporating into any of our custom wallet designs.
The Takeaway
No matter which leather you choose, whether one of our glossy, gorgeous premium shell cordovan selections or a colorful, resilient cowhide, you can order confidently knowing that we only work with the best leathers around. Still can’t decide? Feel free to reach out with any further questions—or simply add “Maker’s Choice” to your order notes and we’ll be happy to curate something from our personal leather collection just for you.
